So running the calibration tool is pretty easy, just follow the included directions but note, on a dual monitor setup run it on your primary monitor first. The one marked “1” in the display settings. After the tool completes its going to install an application that runs on startup and makes sure the correct profile is loaded. This profile will be put in the directory I stated above. Now after this is done, go into that directory and rename the profile. I renamed mine from Spyder2Express.icm to Spyder2Express_right.icm and when I do the left monitor I will rename that one ‘_left’.

After this you’ll want to take your monitors and switch the primary monitor to your secondary. This way you can run the software on the other monitor now. Restart the machine and once the new primary monitor is set run the Spyder2Express again. This profile will be in that same directory with the default name again. Rename this one to something, i.e. “_left”. And you’re done with the calibration tool.

Now after this I go into our color control software, be it Vista’s built in software or our downloaded applet for XP, and I select one of the monitors listed (if you have different makes and models this will be easy, if they are the same it’s a bit of guesswork) and associate it with one of the profiles made, either the _right or the _left profile. Now select the other monitor and associate with the other profile. After applying these changes restart your machine. When the Spyder2Express Software loads up you *should* see a message on each screen where it is loading up the color profile. Now in the silly case where you have two of the same monitor and the color profiles have switched ( you see the _left profile loading on the right) go back into the applet and switch the profiles.

TADA…your done ....email me or post comments on any problems/questions

After buying a second 22”Samsung LCD 226BW. I bought the first one around a year ago, right in the middle of the big panel debate (if you don’t know what I’m talking about search for that model monitor and “S panel”.) Basically Samsung outsourced its panels to a few other manufacturers and while they weren’t “bad” monitors, the Samsung made panels were far better. I got lucky and my original monitor turned out to be a S panel and I have been insanely happy with it.

Flash forward to now, I order a second monitor and receive an “A panel”. While the monitor is very good quality, no stuck pixels, etc there is one problem. The monitor has a SEVERE blue tint to it under normal setup. Using the built in color adjustment I robbed the monitor of almost all blue color, from a setting of “50” to a setting of “5” and there was still a pronounced blue tint. Doing what any normal person would do I decided to spend more money and get a monitor color calibrator.

I wasn’t aware they had dropped so greatly in price, and after searching Amazon.com I ordered this Spyder2Express.

Now after ordering I noticed a serious problem, this product only works on a single monitor. You need the $160 device to support dual monitors. So after a little searching and a little playing I figured out there are ways around it. So here I’m going to outline how to use this with dual monitors on Windows Vista and XP.

PreReq’s :

Windows Vista comes with a built in utility to manage color profiles where as Windows XP does not. Usually color profiles end with a *.icm file extension. These are stored in x:\WINDOWS\System32\Spool\drivers\Color on both a Vista machine and an XP machine.

So if you have windows XP grab the “Microsoft Color Control Applet”, it can be found here Microsoft Color Control Applet and its provided straight from Microsoft. With this applet you get the same control that they now built into Vista. This applet gets installed into the Control Panel. So before you go and run a Spyder2Express there are some things you should know. First uninstall Adobe Gamma, or any type of color profile management software. Including the monitors software i.e. Samsung. After this you’re ready to run the color calibrator.

On a return flight from Cali I found my canon had a lovely crack in the screen and Best Buy's $60 dollar product replacement plan wanted to charge me $180 bucks to fix it. It's a sweet camera so I called Canon. Before calling Canon Use a small screwdriver to take off the casing and look to see if you LCD Screen says SONY on it, the product people at CANON will ask because there are two LCD models.

Canon: +1 800-828-4040
Ask for Products Department
Cost for Sony LCD Screen: $31 Shipped

This tutorial is to help someone fix/replace their cracked/broken LCD Screen. It can take anywhere form 15-60 min depending on how careful or comfortable you are with electronics. I'm no wiz but i've built computers, so the task wasn't daunting. If you aren't comfortable tinkering around with things I wouldn't mess with it, unless you've got nothing to lose. This tutorial is to help you, im not responsible for breaking or causes problem with your camera, follow this at your own risk.

Tools: A small philips head screwdriver and flat head for prying tools pic

Start by removing the battery and flash card and start unscrewing all screws you see, try to remember where they go, if not its pretty easy to see which hole takes longer screws, On the side panel (which is taken off second) near the lanyard hook there are two screws with different threading. Once the back and side panel are off start unscrewing the remaining screws that you see holding the front cover on. All the panels will slide off easily, if not check for screws you missed.

Refer to the picture for the next part which is prying the LCD unit away from the Backlit unit. Enjoy the typos!

Once the lcd unit is free and the button panel is loose you'll notice the ribbon runs around to the front of the camera. The ribbon slides under the Button Panel ribbon. You can slide the button panel ribbon out once you free up the plastic cover from the tape. When this is up you'll see where the ribbon is inserted clearly. Pull the ribbon out, once out youll see the blue lib that help the ribbon moves freely.

At this point place the new LCD screen into the back lit cases, it should snap right in with little pressure. Then run the new ribbon around the bottom and under the free moving button panel. Slide it into piece the old one came from, have the blue panel up, and push it down when the ribbon is all the way in. Make sure the ribbon is flash and all in before reassembling.

Before putting the button panel back on, check out the old panels ribbon and look where the bends are, based off that you should figure out how it is snaked under the panel, then screw the panel back on.

Start piecing all the panels back together and fire it on!

Well I have come across some information about how many Wii's each best buy will be getting. For the district near us which is a good size suburban area near a few major cities the average number was around 70 Wii's. The highest I saw a store getting was 140 and more than half the stores were in the 80's as far as a Wii count. The Lowest a store within 50 miles of here was getting was 45 Wii's. These numbers aren't exact for every store but hopefully they can give you an idea of how many your store will get. If its a small best buy bet around 50, and a large store will be well over 100. Now these numbers are what the stores "ordered" to have shipped to them, which means they could possibly end up with more/less. But the end number for launch should be damn close to the average. Most employees do NOT have this information yet.

GameFly now delivers Wii games right to your door! Free 10-day trial or Start for $9.95

This barcode was what I used to look it up. http://www.upcdatabase.com/item.asp?upc=045496880019 . This will scan and if you type in the barcode it can be looked up in any major retailers computer. Rock on...